Jerusalem of Gold, City of Old

Yesterday was almost too much to express in words. If I thought I was homesick in Nashville, when things would all of a sudden hit me with a wave of nostalgia, I was unprepared for the flood of memories that overwhelmed me while walking around Jerusalem yesterday. Sometimes, these meories served me well, like when I was directing my sister to a great little eatery offf the beaten path, and I was able to navigate the twists and turns like it was second nature. I think it really is a dormant part of myself that was able to express its comfort and ease at immersing back into this culture and place.

The first place I went to was the Old City. We drove through the Jaffa Gate, where the Arab outdoor market ("shuk") is, and the Armenian Quarter. We parked and walked through the Jewish Quarter to the steps that lead to the Western Wall. The Jewish Quarter, "Rovah", is ancient. The stones are worn down from being traipsed on by millions and millions of feet; historical figures, pilgrims, fanatics, non believers, conquerers and patriots. I walked on the stone streets that the Roman Legionnaires walked when they occupied Jerusalem at teh beginning of time as we count it. The roads are for foot traffic only, there are houses and building at odd angles that make for interesting, meandering pathways and surprise junctions. It is a rabbit warren of stone. The roads are narrow little alleyways and pathways that seem to go on forever. The light seems to glow, not shine from all over as if the sun's rays are refracted into an overall effect of light, as opposed to rays that penetrate certain places and not others. The Rovah smells sweet, with a faint odor of damp marble. Everything is made of "Jerusalem Stone" which has a faint pinkish hue, and it serves to also lighten the area, even though it is quite ancient.

I made a beeline for the Western Wall. Wall of tears, prayers. Always, it is breathtaking to see, from up high and as you descend the steps that lead to the plaza. A small remnant of the Temple of Solomon, it still towers in majestic simplicity, a wall of stone amid archeological ruins, haphazard buildings, and the throngs of faithful and visitors who come to pay their respects. To some, this is God's address, and the local call you can make to speak with Him. To others, it is a living testament to the continuity of history and the ebb and flow of political powers.

I had forgotten about the letters. Millions of little papers stuffed in between the stones, the wall overflowing with people's letters to God. In eery language in the world, containing hopes, dreams and prayers, people leave God little notes, like calling cards, in the crevices of the Wall.

The stones were cool to the touch. Regardless of being bathed in direct light all morning, they did not absorb the warmth, but rather provided a welcome and gentle coolness to the fevered touch of those overwhlemed with the enormity of their location. Supportive and silent, the Wall accepts all who come to visit. There is a song in Hebrew about the Wall, the best line is, "There are people with hearts of stone, there are stones with the heart of man".

My fingers trembled as I reached out to touch the Wall. I kissed it's welcoming stones and laid my forehead against their steadfastness. I felt contented, peaceful and filled with a coolness that eased the anquish of my daily concerns and issues. I did not pray, but I did commune with the presences I felt, with the living history I was immersed in. I did leave a note for God, though. I had only one request.

After a little while, I left with serenity in my heart and a bemused cleansing feeling in my emotional state. It was a powerful Wall, this humble little pile of stones. I sat gazing at it from afar for a while...then I left. I cant describe the jumble of emotions I felt sitting there - its all still a little too visceral to express.

I spent the rest of the day catching up with friends, running ot different parts of the city, juping on and off buses like a pro. I was amazed how much I did still rememebr about getting around and where I was going. It was cool, and a little weird. But I had a nice time, and I am very blessed when it comes to friends. I bought some jewelry, and small gifts, and in general had an emotional, rich, wonderful, full day.

I udnerstand my homesickness while in the US, and I am absorbing the ache, and the bittersweetness of my visit here, now, as I know I need to head back there in a week. I miss being here.